Draught Proofing Cost UK: What You'll Pay in 2026 (And How Much You'll Save)

# Draught Proofing Cost UK: What You'll Pay in 2026 (And How Much You'll Save)

If your home feels chilly even with the heating on, draughts are probably the culprit. Cold air sneaking in around windows, doors, letterboxes and chimneys can add hundreds of pounds to your annual energy bill — and draught proofing is one of the cheapest, most effective ways to stop it.

In this guide, we'll break down exactly what draught proofing costs in the UK in 2026, what you can tackle yourself for under £20, and how quickly the investment pays for itself.

What Is Draught Proofing?

Draught proofing means sealing the gaps and cracks in your home where cold air gets in and warm air escapes. Common problem areas include gaps around windows and doors, letterboxes, keyholes, chimneys and fireplaces, floorboards and skirting boards, loft hatches, and pipework holes through walls.

It's different from insulation (which slows heat transfer through walls, roofs and floors), though both work together to keep your home warm. If you've already invested in loft insulation or cavity wall insulation, draught proofing is the logical next step.

How Much Does Draught Proofing Cost in the UK?

For a typical three-bedroom semi-detached house, professional whole-house draught proofing usually costs between £150 and £300, with most homeowners paying around £225 including VAT. That makes it one of the most affordable energy efficiency upgrades you can make.

Here's what you can expect to pay for individual areas:

Doors

Professional draught proofing for an external door typically costs £50 to £90 per door, depending on the type of seal needed and where you live (London prices tend to be 30–40% higher). This includes fitting brush strips or rubber seals around the frame, plus a draught excluder at the bottom.

For a DIY approach, a self-adhesive foam strip costs as little as £3 to £8 from any DIY store, though rubber or brush strips last longer and cost £8 to £15 per door.

Windows

Draught proofing windows costs £10 to £25 per window for a professional to fit, or £3 to £10 per window if you do it yourself with self-adhesive strips.

For sash windows, the job is more involved. Specialist sash window draught proofing uses brush pile strips fitted into the frame and typically costs £100 to £200 per window professionally. It's a bigger investment, but sash windows are often the single biggest source of draughts in older homes.

Chimneys and Fireplaces

An unused chimney can funnel a surprising amount of cold air into your living room. A chimney draught excluder (sometimes called a chimney balloon or chimney sheep) costs £20 to ¢50 and you can fit it yourself in minutes. If you want a more permanent solution, a cap fitted to the chimney pot costs around £100 to £200 including installation.

Letterboxes and Keyholes

A letterbox draught excluder with a brush or flap costs £5 to £15 and is a quick DIY job. Keyhole covers cost just ¢2 to £5. Small investments, but they make a noticeable difference — especially on a windy day.

Floors and Skirting Boards

Gaps between floorboards and around skirting boards can let in significant draughts, particularly in older properties. You can fill floorboard gaps with a flexible floor gap filler for around £10 to £20 per room, or use a sealant gun along skirting boards for under £10.

Loft Hatches

A poorly sealed loft hatch lets warm air escape straight into your roof space. A loft hatch draught strip costs around £5 to £10, and fitting it takes ten minutes. If you've already got loft insulation, this is essential — otherwise that insulation isn't working as hard as it should.

DIY vs Professional Draught Proofing

Most basic draught proofing is well within DIY territory. Self-adhesive strips, draught excluders, chimney balloons and sealant are all straightforward to fit with no special tools.

Professional help is worth considering for sash windows (which need precise fitting of brush pile strips into routed channels), external doors with complex thresholds, whole-house draught proofing where you want everything done at once, and if you're not confident identifying all the draught sources.

A professional will also use a smoke pencil or thermal imaging to find draughts you might miss, particularly around pipework penetrations and hidden gaps behind radiators.

How Much Will You Save on Energy Bills?

According to the Energy Saving Trust, draught proofing your windows and doors alone can save around £40 per year on a typical energy bill. Draught proofing across your whole home — including chimneys, floors and other gaps — can save approximately £60 to £85 per year.

That means a professional whole-house draught proofing job at £225 pays for itself in roughly three years. A DIY approach using strips and excluders could cost under £50 and pay back within a single winter.

When combined with other insulation measures, the savings compound. A well-insulated and draught-proofed home retains heat far more efficiently, meaning your boiler (or heat pump) runs less often and your energy bills drop further.

Can You Get Grants for Draught Proofing?

Draught proofing can sometimes be funded — or partly funded — through government energy efficiency schemes:

ECO4 (Energy Company Obligation): This scheme ran until March 2026, and its successor may continue to include draught proofing as an eligible measure for low-income households. Check with your energy supplier for the latest eligibility criteria.

Warm Homes: Local Grant: Some local authorities offer grants of up to £15,000 for energy efficiency improvements, which can include draught proofing alongside other measures. Eligibility is typically based on household income and your home's current EPC rating.

The Great British Insulation Scheme (GBIS): Primarily focused on insulation, but some packages include draught proofing as a complementary measure.

If you're unsure where you stand, improving your EPC rating is a good starting point — a low EPC score can actually make you eligible for more support.

When Is Draught Proofing Not Appropriate?

There are a few situations where you should be careful. You shouldn't seal up rooms with open-flued gas fires, boilers or wood burners, as they need ventilation to operate safely. You should also avoid blocking trickle vents in double-glazed windows, as these are there to prevent condensation. If your home has persistent damp or mould, improving ventilation (not reducing it) may be the priority.

If you're not sure whether a particular vent or gap is there intentionally, it's worth getting a professional assessment before you seal it up.

Draught Proofing and Your EPC Rating

Draught proofing can improve your Energy Performance Certificate rating, which matters if you're a landlord (minimum EPC E is required for rental properties) or you're planning to sell. It's listed as a recommended improvement on many EPCs, and because it's so affordable, it's one of the easiest wins for boosting your EPC score.

Is Draught Proofing Worth It?

In short: absolutely. At £150 to £300 for a whole house (or under £50 for DIY), draught proofing offers one of the fastest payback periods of any home energy upgrade. You'll notice the difference in comfort almost immediately, and the savings build up year after year.

If you're on a tight budget, start with the biggest draught sources — usually external doors, any unused chimneys, and the most exposed windows. Even spending £20 on a couple of draught excluders and a chimney balloon can make a meaningful difference this winter.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does draught proofing last?

Most draught proofing materials last 5 to 10 years before they need replacing. Self-adhesive foam strips tend to wear out faster (2-3 years), while rubber seals and brush strips are more durable. Chimney balloons and caps can last 10 years or more with proper care.

Can I draught proof my home if I rent?

Yes — many draught proofing solutions are temporary and removable, so you won't need your landlord's permission. Self-adhesive strips, chimney balloons and removable door excluders are all renter-friendly. For more permanent fixes, speak to your landlord, as they may be willing to cover the cost (especially if it helps meet EPC requirements for rental properties).

Does draught proofing cause condensation?

If done properly, no. Modern draught proofing targets uncontrolled air leaks while leaving controlled ventilation (like trickle vents and extractor fans) intact. If you notice increased condensation after draught proofing, it usually means a room needs better extraction — particularly kitchens and bathrooms.

What is the difference between draught proofing and insulation?

Draught proofing seals gaps where air physically moves in and out of your home. Insulation slows the transfer of heat through solid surfaces like walls, roofs and floors. Both reduce heat loss, but in different ways. For the best results, you want both — insulation to keep heat in your walls and roof, and draught proofing to stop cold air sneaking through gaps.

Should I draught proof before or after getting a heat pump?

Ideally before. Heat pumps operate most efficiently in well-insulated, draught-free homes because they produce heat at a lower temperature than gas boilers. Reducing draughts means a heat pump doesn't have to work as hard, which lowers your running costs and improves comfort. It's one of the best preparatory steps you can take if you're considering the switch. --- title: "Draught Proofing Cost UK: What You'll Pay in 2026 (And How Much You'll Save)" description: "How much does draught proofing cost in the UK? We break down prices for doors, windows, chimneys and floors, plus expected energy savings and available grants." date: "2026-04-10" author: "The Home Energy Hub" category: "guides" tags: ["draught proofing", "insulation", "energy efficiency", "home improvement", "energy savings"] ---

# Draught Proofing Cost UK: What You'll Pay in 2026 (And How Much You'll Save)

If your home feels chilly even with the heating on, draughts are probably the culprit. Cold air sneaking in around windows, doors, letterboxes and chimneys can add hundreds of pounds to your annual energy bill — and draught proofing is one of the cheapest, most effective ways to stop it.

In this guide, we'll break down exactly what draught proofing costs in the UK in 2026, what you can tackle yourself for under £20, and how quickly the investment pays for itself.

What Is Draught Proofing?

Draught proofing means sealing the gaps and cracks in your home where cold air gets in and warm air escapes. Common problem areas include gaps around windows and doors, letterboxes, keyholes, chimneys and fireplaces, floorboards and skirting boards, loft hatches, and pipework holes through walls.

It's different from insulation (which slows heat transfer through walls, roofs and floors), though both work together to keep your home warm. If you've already invested in loft insulation or cavity wall insulation, draught proofing is the logical next step.

How Much Does Draught Proofing Cost in the UK?

For a typical three-bedroom semi-detached house, professional whole-house draught proofing usually costs between £150 and £300, with most homeowners paying around £225 including VAT. That makes it one of the most affordable energy efficiency upgrades you can make.

Here's what you can expect to pay for individual areas:

Doors

Professional draught proofing for an external door typically costs £50 to £90 per door, depending on the type of seal needed and where you live (London prices tend to be 30–40% higher). This includes fitting brush strips or rubber seals around the frame, plus a draught excluder at the bottom.

For a DIY approach, a self-adhesive foam strip costs as little as £3 to £8 from any DIY store, though rubber or brush strips last longer and cost £8 to £15 per door.

Windows

Draught proofing windows costs £10 to £25 per window for a professional to fit, or £3 to £10 per window if you do it yourself with self-adhesive strips.

For sash windows, the job is more involved. Specialist sash window draught proofing uses brush pile strips fitted into the frame and typically costs £100 to £200 per window professionally. It's a bigger investment, but sash windows are often the single biggest source of draughts in older homes.

Chimneys and Fireplaces

An unused chimney can funnel a surprising amount of cold air into your living room. A chimney draught excluder (sometimes called a chimney balloon or chimney sheep) costs £20 to £50 and you can fit it yourself in minutes. If you want a more permanent solution, a cap fitted to the chimney pot costs around £100 to £200 including installation.

Letterboxes and Keyholes

A letterbox draught excluder with a brush or flap costs £5 to £15 and is a quick DIY job. Keyhole covers cost just £2 to £5. Small investments, but they make a noticeable difference — especially on a windy day.

Floors and Skirting Boards

Gaps between floorboards and around skirting boards can let in significant draughts, particularly in older properties. You can fill floorboard gaps with a flexible filler for around £10 to £20 per room, or use a sealant gun along skirting boards for under £10.

Loft Hatches

A poorly sealed loft hatch lets warm air escape straight into your roof space. A loft hatch draught strip costs around £5 to £10, and fitting it takes ten minutes. If you've already got loft insulation, this is essential — otherwise that insulation isn't working as hard as it should.

DIY vs Professional Draught Proofing

Most basic draught proofing is well within DIY territory. Self-adhesive strips, draught excluders, chimney balloons and sealant are all straightforward to fit with no special tools.

Professional help is worth considering for sash windows (which need precise fitting of brush pile strips into routed channels), external doors with complex thresholds, whole-house draught proofing where you want everything done at once, and if you're not confident identifying all the draught sources.

A professional will also use a smoke pencil or thermal imaging to find draughts you might miss, particularly around pipework penetrations and hidden gaps behind radiators.

How Much Will You Save on Energy Bills?

According to the Energy Saving Trust, draught proofing your windows and doors alone can save around £40 per year on a typical energy bill. Draught proofing across your whole home — including chimneys, floors and other gaps — can save approximately £60 to £85 per year.

That means a professional whole-house draught proofing job at £225 pays for itself in roughly three years. A DIY approach using strips and excluders could cost under £50 and pay back within a single winter.

When combined with other insulation measures, the savings compound. A well-insulated and draught-proofed home retains heat far more efficiently, meaning your boiler (or heat pump) runs less often and your energy bills drop further.

Can You Get Grants for Draught Proofing?

Draught proofing can sometimes be funded — or partly funded — through government energy efficiency schemes:

ECO4 (Energy Company Obligation): This scheme ran until March 2026, and its successor may continue to include draught proofing as an eligible measure for low-income households. Check with your energy supplier for the latest eligibility criteria.

Warm Homes: Local Grant: Some local authorities offer grants of up to £15,000 for energy efficiency improvements, which can include draught proofing alongside other measures. Eligibility is typically based on household income and your home's current EPC rating.

The Great British Insulation Scheme (GBIS): Primarily focused on insulation, but some packages include draught proofing as a complementary measure.

If you're unsure where you stand, improving your EPC rating is a good starting point — a low EPC score can actually make you eligible for more support.

When Is Draught Proofing Not Appropriate?

There are a few situations where you should be careful. You shouldn't seal up rooms with open-flued gas fires, boilers or wood burners, as they need ventilation to operate safely. You should also avoid blocking trickle vents in double-glazed windows, as these are there to prevent condensation. If your home has persistent damp or mould, improving ventilation (not reducing it) may be the priority.

If you're not sure whether a particular vent or gap is there intentionally, it's worth getting a professional assessment before you seal it up.

Draught Proofing and Your EPC Rating

Draught proofing can improve your Energy Performance Certificate rating, which matters if you're a landlord (minimum EPC E is required for rental properties) or you're planning to sell. It's listed as a recommended improvement on many EPCs, and because it's so affordable, it's one of the easiest wins for boosting your EPC score.

Is Draught Proofing Worth It?

In short: absolutely. At £150 to £300 for a whole house (or under £50 for DIY), draught proofing offers one of the fastest payback periods of any home energy upgrade. You'll notice the difference in comfort almost immediately, and the savings build up year after year.

If you're on a tight budget, start with the biggest draught sources — usually external doors, any unused chimneys, and the most exposed windows. Even spending £20 on a couple of draught excluders and a chimney balloon can make a meaningful difference this winter.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does draught proofing last?

Most draught proofing materials last 5 to 10 years before they need replacing. Self-adhesive foam strips tend to wear out faster (2-3 years), while rubber seals and brush strips are more durable. Chimney balloons and caps can last 10 years or more with proper care.

Can I draught proof my home if I rent?

Yes — many draught proofing solutions are temporary and removable, so you won't need your landlord's permission. Self-adhesive strips, chimney balloons and removable door excluders are all renter-friendly. For more permanent fixes, speak to your landlord, as they may be willing to cover the cost (especially if it helps meet EPC requirements for rental properties).

Does draught proofing cause condensation?

If done properly, no. Modern draught proofing targets uncontrolled air leaks while leaving controlled ventilation (like trickle vents and extractor fans) intact. If you notice increased condensation after draught proofing, it usually means a room needs better extraction — particularly kitchens and bathrooms.

What is the difference between draught proofing and insulation?

Draught proofing seals gaps where air physically moves in and out of your home. Insulation slows the transfer of heat through solid surfaces like walls, roofs and floors. Both reduce heat loss, but in different ways. For the best results, you want both — insulation to keep heat in your walls and roof, and draught proofing to stop cold air sneaking through gaps.

Should I draught proof before or after getting a heat pump?

Ideally before. Heat pumps operate most efficiently in well-insulated, draught-free homes because they produce heat at a lower temperature than gas boilers. Reducing draughts means a heat pump doesn't have to work as hard, which lowers your running costs and improves comfort. It's one of the best preparatory steps you can take if you're considering the switch.